Ocean Echo 1: October 2012

Dear friends

I am anchored at Moorea Island again, working my way back to Tahiti, Tuamotus and Marquesas. It is and will be difficult sailing against prevailing winds. Cyclone season is approaching, so it is the time to move to safer area. Marquesas Islands do not usually get cyclones, since they are in the path of colder Peru current. Sea temperature above 28 C has a lot to do with cyclonic activity anywhere on the Earth.
Moorea Island is very beautiful and quiet, compare to nearby Tahiti Island. I have visited botanical gardens there, which was quite interesting. Hike to Belvedere lookout offers nice view of Cook's and Opunohu bays, which are 2 largest bays on Moorea.
Sail to Huahine Island was an overnighter in light winds. Huahine is a smaller island quite popular among cruisers and charter boats. It has a very convenient grocery store near the shore and nice white beach at anchorage area. I had a lot of problems to hold on with my anchor here, because the strong current and higher winds. Re-anchoring 2 times at night in strong wind and deep water is not much fun in small area. This made me finally decide to modify my SS - CQR/plow anchor. I ended up cutting it apart while anchored in Bora Bora and fabricating/welding (on the boat) new SS scoop anchor (from leftover SS material), similar to Rocna/Supreme style. It can be very stressful not trusting your own main anchor in far out places!!
Sail to Bora Bora from Huahine was in full Moon night. Bora Bora mountains appeared in Moon light after midnight, which was quite need. Bora Bora is popular and busy holiday island with many seados/jet skis, tour boats, cruise ships and helicopter. Biggest draw on this island is the quality - color of the clear sea water. Very nice shades of blue and green with many white beaches. There are some nice sheltered anchorages at Bora Bora.
I have seen too many "broken dreams" (closed down, rotting away) on these islands. Many resorts, pearl farms, pearl shops, etc. abandoned. Bora Bora has a lot of them.
Humpback whales kept me a company, when I was motoring away from Bora Bora. They put on a fantastic wild show, just like a dolphins. Two adult and two young whales spent about 30-40 minutes breaching, spy hopping, tail flapping and fin slapping around the boat. They did not want to leave the boat, even when I was trying to steer away. People actually snorkel and dive around them in South Pacific waters. They come up from colder regions like N. Zealand for the winter months.
Raiatea and Tahaa were my last stop in Northern Society Islands, before heading back to Moorea and Tahiti. Wind funneling between these two islands can be quite strong, which does affect anchoring in local deep water anchorages. Main town of Uturoa has a bit of Papeete touch with the harbor park and cruise ship terminal. Raitea Island has 2 marinas and boatyards, which are fully occupied by local boats and charter boats. Raiatea Island is a center of charter business in French Polynesia, since Bora Bora and Huahine are only a few hours sail away.
I had to wait for lighter winds (time my trip) to be able to sail back to Moorea Island. It was not much fun beating into the wind in exact opposite direction of my route (on the nose).
I have to admit, that French Polynesia has been good to me so far. It is very beautiful everywhere around here. Marquesas, Tuamotus, Society Islands are all unique and special with their own character. People have been nice and helpful.

Maintaining this blog could by complicated time to time, because Internet signal/connection for uploading pictures, will not be as good/fast as it is in large cities/communities. Please, excuse my poor writing skills and grammar. Google translate does good job converting text to other languages.
I hope, that you will find something interesting in this blog – enjoy.

Jara (JJ) Holcman s.v. Ocean Echo 1